Introduction: Why the Starwheel Divides Collectors

When Audemars Piguet introduced the Code 11.59 collection in 2019, it sparked immediate controversy. Purists criticized its departure from the iconic Royal Oak design language, while innovators applauded AP's courage to evolve. Six years later, the most avant-garde complication in the collection—the Starwheel—remains perhaps the most misunderstood luxury watch of 2025.

The Starwheel's wandering hours complication isn't new—it dates back to the 17th century—but AP's execution is thoroughly modern. Rather than following the industry trend of reissuing vintage designs, Audemars Piguet has reimagined historical complexity through a contemporary lens.

In this comprehensive review, we'll explore whether the Code 11.59 Starwheel deserves its controversial reputation or if it's actually the stealth masterpiece of 2025's luxury watch market.

Futuristic Design & Aesthetics/ Audimars Piguet code 11.59

At first glance, the Code 11.59 case appears deceptively simple. Its round middle is suspended between an octagonal base and bezel—a architectural marvel that creates intriguing light plays across different angles. The 41mm width wears comfortably on most wrists, though those with smaller wrists might prefer our guide to the best luxury watches for small wrists.

The multi-layer case construction creates stunning light refraction

The wandering hours complication viewed up close

The true innovation lies in the dial execution. Rather than traditional hands, three satellite discs each bearing four hour numerals rotate around the dial. The current hour is indicated by a fixed arrow at 12 o'clock, while minutes are tracked on a semicircular scale at the bottom.

Materials & Craftsmanship / Audimars Piguet code 11.59

Audemars Piguet offers the Starwheel in several configurations, including pink gold, white gold, and for 2025, a limited edition ceramic composite. The craftsmanship is exceptional throughout, with particular attention paid to the finishing of normally hidden components.

The gold models offer a traditional luxury feel, while the ceramic composite edition (limited to 100 pieces worldwide) represents AP's forward-thinking material science. For those interested in other gold options, our guide to the best gold watches in 2025 explores additional alternatives.

The Starwheel Mechanism Explained

At the heart of the Code 11.59 Starwheel beats Caliber 4310, an automatic movement derived from AP's more traditional offerings but significantly modified to accommodate the wandering hours complication.

The mechanism works through a series of three star-shaped wheels (hence the name) that each carry four hour numerals. As each hour passes, the current disc advances while the next rotates into position. The minute track uses a retrograde mechanism that snaps back to zero every hour.

Technical Specifications

The movement finishing, visible through the sapphire caseback, exemplifies Audemars Piguet's attention to detail. Bridges are adorned with circular Côtes de Genève, beveled edges are mirror-polished, and the mainplate features perlage decoration.

What It's Like to Wear the Starwheel

Wearing the Code 11.59 Starwheel is an experience that evolves over time. Initially, telling time requires conscious effort as your brain adapts to the unconventional display. Within a week, however, reading becomes intuitive and surprisingly quick.

The 41mm case wears comfortably due to its curved lugs that hug the wrist. At 10.7mm thick, it slides easily under shirt cuffs despite its visual presence. The allocation of weight is particularly impressive—the gold models have substantial heft that communicates quality without feeling cumbersome.

The strap deserves special mention. AP offers both alligator leather and rubber options, with a quick-change system that makes switching effortless. The rubber strap, in particular, provides an interesting contrast to the formal complication—it's perhaps the only watch that can transition from black-tie events to casual weekends without seeming out of place.

How It Compares to Traditional Luxury Watches

The Code 11.59 Starwheel exists in a category almost entirely its own. The closest comparisons would be:

Vs. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime: While both feature unconventional time displays, the Patek is exponentially more expensive and complex. The Starwheel offers avant-garde appeal at a fraction of the price.

Vs. Urwerk UR-100: Both reinterpret historical complications with modern materials, but the Urwerk leans further into futuristic aesthetics while the AP maintains more traditional luxury cues.

Vs. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat: Vacheron's approach to innovation focuses on precision during storage, while AP's prioritizes display innovation. Different philosophies of what constitutes horological advancement.

What sets the Starwheel apart is its balance of historical reverence and contemporary execution. It doesn't reject watchmaking traditions but rather reinterprets them through a modern lens.

Final Verdict: Masterpiece or Misfire?

After extensive testing and living with the Code 11.59 Starwheel for several weeks, our conclusion is definitive: this is one of the most unfairly maligned watches of recent years.

The initial criticism of the Code 11.59 collection seems to have unfairly tainted perception of the Starwheel specifically. While the more conventional models in the collection might have justified some skepticism, the Starwheel represents exactly what luxury watchmaking should aspire to: honoring history while pushing boundaries.

Rating: 4.5/5 stars

Recommendation: For collectors who value innovation and aren't afraid to explain their watch to curious admirers.

Investment Potential: Limited editions likely to appreciate; standard models should hold value well given their niche appeal.